Czech Cuisine: Just Pork Eyes in Beer?

on December 5, 2024

Lumpy Poop or a Black Truffle?

The lines you are about to read will come in handy if you are planning to visit Prague in the future. It discusses the issue of authentic versus touristy food in a historical context and gives you tips on how to tell the difference. However, if you really thought for a moment that the title reflected reality, you are one of those people who are prepared to think the worst of Czech cuisine. Yes, sometimes Czech food is looked down upon as some sort of lumpy poop found in the woods. But if you give it a chance, you may discover a black truffle. Newcomers to our cuisine often expect something like pork eyes served in beer, but if they pay attention, they can be rewarded with an orchestra of flavors.

From the Middle Ages to Independence

The evolution of Czech food spans a thousand years. Many different eras have left their mark on what we eat today. The Middle Ages witnessed the widespread consumption of different types of grain, so delicious beer and bread have been staples ever since. The renaissance, in turn, saw the largest number of man-made fishponds in our country, around 75,000. And aristocratic feasts at the time laid the foundations of modern fine dining. The nineteenth century was a time of fuming machines and inventive ideas that brought about miracles, such as Pilsner lager, sugar cubes and Prague ham. And in the early twentieth century, the so-called “chlebíček“ – a fancy version of the open-faced sandwich – saw the light of day. Perhaps in celebration of Czechoslovakia’s newfound independence.

Communist Impact on Food

However, communism, which the Czech people brought upon themselves in 1948 and which they had to endure for more than 40 years, proved to be a major obstacle to the development of Czech cuisine. Above all, borders were closed, and local food lost its ability to absorb influences from neighboring areas. Quantity became more important than quality and the mass factories took over the local bakeries, breweries, slaughterhouses, etc. The government tried to standardize what people ate by setting guidelines, and the result was that regional foods began to disappear over time, like sugar cubes in hot tea.

Globalization

This process was expected to stop when communism ended in 1989. Surprisingly, however, the Velvet Revolution only accelerated the bad situation in some respects. Globalization now seems to be an unstoppable train rushing downhill while throwing old recipes and small producers out the window. The only passengers left are large impersonal corporations and hamburgers. People’s memory of what their ancestors ate is effectively erased by the amount of information they are bombarded with on a daily basis.

Scratching My Head

So, when I look at the menus of traditional Czech restaurants for a long time nowadays, my head spins. At first glance, there’s nothing wrong with them. But after a while, I start to feel like I’ve walked into an Irish forest, only to realize that the trees form disturbingly neat rows because they are planted exactly 1 meter apart. In the case of traditional Czech menus, I experience a similar eerie uniformity because everywhere I go there are five or ten dishes over and over again. Pork knee, goulash, schnitzel, fried cheese, roast duck and beef tenderloin with dumplings, but also bbq wings, burgers, fries and ribs.

The Usual Suspects

I understand why roast duck and beef tenderloin with dumplings, which we call “svíčková”, is on the menu. It really is the Czech national dish, the holy grail, so to speak. But the rest is debatable. Goulash, for example, although it has a time-honored tradition in our country, is as unexpected in the Central European region as a balloon at a birthday party. By contrast, pork knuckle, the famous “Czech classic”, is one of the first things you see on the menu of a German restaurant in Berlin. And schnitzel, let’s be honest, is simply fried meat that is hardly anything special, especially for someone who comes from the country that invented KFC. Finally, fried cheese is nothing but a cheap communist way of stuffing the stomachs of comrades full of calories.

“Traditional Czech Restaurant”

The second part of the menu, bbq wings, burgers, fries and ribs, makes me scratch my head even more. The dishes are clearly completely detached from the Czech culinary tradition. I don’t mind having a good burger at a burger joint. And there’s nothing wrong with being inspired by foreign cuisine. But why should a traditional Czech restaurant serve hamburgers? Is it because it goes well with beer, or did the chef simply run out of ideas? Considering the wealth of historical influences that Czech cuisine has absorbed over the centuries, there is no reason why such an obscene reduction should take place. Why are Czech traditional menus so limited, or even worse – unified? A possible explanation would be: the dishes are simple to prepare, cheap to cook, easy to sell, and perhaps somehow expected by tourists themselves. The point is: if you see a restaurant that claims to be a “traditional Czech restaurant”, do not enter.

Hidden Gems

But as I mentioned at the beginning of this article, people who try to find out what authentic Czech cuisine is all about will discover hidden gems. Such dishes are perhaps a little harder to find on menus. It may even prove necessary to leave the city center. But the feeling that you have just tasted something unique will warm your heart.

  1. Rosehip sauce with deer and dumplings at the Vinohradský Parlament restaurant.
  2. Kulajda, a South Bohemian soup made with dill, wild mushrooms, cream, vinegar, potatoes and poached egg. A very good version is at Café Imperial.
  3. Plum dumplings from Café Savoy.
  4. Koláče – unlike “trdelník” or “chimney cake”, koláče are traditional Czech pastries. They have a round shape and are usually filled with poppy seeds, fruit or curd. They’re great from Kus Koláče bakery.
  5. Roast duck from the restaurant U Bansethů near Náměstí Bratří Synků.
  6. “Svíčková” – beef tenderloin with dumplings from the restaurant Tiskárna in Jindřišská Street.
  7. Puff pastry roll stuffed with smoked carp is available at Výčep restaurant in Korunní Street.
  8. Olomoucké tvarůžky, a unique type of Czech cheese. Its pickled version is available at Lokál restaurant. (There are more Lokál restaurants in Prague, but have similar menus.)
  9. Beer ice cream from Vinohradský pivovar.
  10. Rabbit with poppy seed purée and mushroom sauce from Eatery restaurant in Holešovice.

Peacock on LSD

Then there are dishes and ingredients that time has washed off our tables, such as millet, quince, morrels, carp in black sauce, caraway liqueur, “pučálka” – a kind of popcorn made from green peas, etc. Let’s hope they will find their way back onto menus one day. Please note that the dishes from the list are just the tip of the iceberg – there is a lot more to explore. Also, restaurants may change their menus before you arrive in the Czech Republic. I hope this article has inspired you to try these hard-to-find dishes the next time you come to Prague, because I am convinced that even a peacock on LSD surfing a rainbow can’t compare to the beauty and range of colors embodied in Czech cuisine.

More tips here.